A bespoke unit either disappears on the head or announces itself every time the client turns. The difference is decided long before ventilation begins — in the measurement sheet and the mold.
1. Seven Circumferences, Three Verticals
Circumference alone is not a cap size. Record seven horizontal measurements — hairline, mid-forehead, ear-to-ear over the crown, occipital, nape, and both temple arcs — plus three verticals: front hairline to nape, ear to ear over the top, and the temple-to-mastoid drop. Two clients with an identical 22-inch circumference can require caps that differ by a full size at the occipital.
2. Mold Before You Specify Density
Take the mold with the hair flattened and a thin film cap in place, then mark the natural hairline, part line and any thinning zones directly on the film. Density is specified per zone off that map, not as a single number — 150% at the crown with 120% at the temples reads far more natural than a uniform 180%.
3. Tolerances Worth Writing Into the Order
Agree the acceptable tolerance in writing before production: ±0.5cm on circumference, ±0.3cm on the nape curve, and a lace border that follows the marked hairline within 2mm. A cap that is 1cm loose at the nape will lift during the first week of wear, and no amount of adhesive corrects it.